Salsa is one of the few foodstuffs I already feel comfortable experimenting with. Give me a collection of onions, peppers, tomatoes and garlic, and I can whip up something relatively delicious. Thus, when our pileup of leftover CSA produce came to include just those ingredients, I jumped at the chance to thumb my nose at November by making a big ol’ batch of salsa. Plus, I intended to bring something to a going away party, and nothing says soused revelry like salsa stains on your drinkin’ clothes.

Mind you, by default I don’t really make the most authentic salsa. From what I’ve gathered, authentic salsas tend to be thinner, but often with more concentrated flavors than their tex-mexy American counterparts. They make excellent condiments, but I’ve always found them to be less satisfying as standalone snacks. When I decide to make a more authentic salsa, I invariably turn to Rick Bayless’ Mexican Everyday (the only Bayless cookbook in my collection, but an excellent one). In fact, I frequently use his more authentic salsas as inspiration when making my chunky, chip-appropriate versions.

The recipe –

Ingredients

• 3 or 4 large tomatoes
• 4 bell peppers, some red, some green
• at least 2 jalapenos (or other chili, if you prefer)
• 1 dried ancho chili (optional)
• 1/2 of a large red onion
• 3 large cloves of garlic, unpeeled
• lime juice
• cilantro
• salt

1. Soak the dried ancho in hot water for about 30 minutes. In the meantime, roast 1/2 of the tomatoes and bell peppers, and all of the garlic and fresh chili peppers. I put the bell peppers directly over my gas flame, roasted the tomatoes under the broiler, and dry roasted the garlic and chilis in a pan over medium-high heat.

2. Place the roasted bell peppers and chilis into a paper bag, and fold or crumple the top. Leave them there for at least 10 or 15 minutes as they cool down; the steam in the bag will make them easier to peel. While you’re waiting, peel, seed, and roughly chop the tomatoes, then throw them into a food processor or big mortar and pestle (or molcajete if you prefer). Peel, roughly chop, and add the garlic as well.

3. By now, the roasted peppers should be ready, along with the soaking dried ancho. Peel as much skin as you can off of all of the roasted peppers, but don’t obsess over the stubborn bits.

4. Seed the roasted bell peppers; whether you seed the chilis or ancho depends on how spicy you want your salsa. Roughly chop all of these peppers (i.e. all but the fresh, firm bell peppers you set aside earlier) and add them to the tomato mixture.

5. Process the mixture into a relatively smooth, soupy base. Add salt and lime juice to taste.

6. Dice the red onion, and remaining peppers and tomatoes however fine you like and mix them with the soupy base you just made. Add them gradually, so you can more closely control the balance and consistency of the salsa (for this reason, it’s good to have some extra peppers and tomatoes on hand).

7. If the salsa’s too chunky, process a portion of it, and then stir it back in with the rest, repeating until you’ve achieved the desired consistency. If it’s too thin, throw in some more fresh, chopped vegetables. Once you’re happy with the consistency, chop the cilantro and stir it in. Adjust the salt and lime juice as necessary. If you’re finding it a bit too acidic, mix a dash of sugar in.

This produces pretty mild salsa. If I were making it for myself, I’d add in more or spicier chilis and probably some of their seeds. Next time, I’ll toss some chipotle in adobo into the base for smokier results. I added the dried ancho mostly because I have a bunch laying around, and I need to use them up. I was, however, impressed with its contribution. It added a unique earthiness that complemented the roasted tomatoes and peppers nicely. If you’re spice averse, don’t be afraid of the ancho — it’s quite mild.

My salsa pic is pretty crappy, which is why it’s hiding at the end of the post, but here it is nonetheless. Presumably I’ll get better at this food photography thing with a little practice.